Freud Router Bits Catalog FAQ: 90° V-Grooving, 1/2 Shanks & Common Mistakes

After about six years ordering and troubleshooting woodworking tooling, I've got a list of mistakes that paid for this knowledge. Most were avoidable. This FAQ is for the person whose search history includes the Freud router bits catalog, the Freud 90° V grooving router bit, a 1/2 shank question, and possibly a wrench set. If that's you, you're not alone. Here are the questions I get asked, plus a few I wish I'd asked before spending the money.

How do I search the Freud router bits catalog without getting lost?

The Freud router bits catalog is not arranged by good-to-cheap. It's arranged by profile family: straight, round-over, rail-and-stile, V-grooving, dado, and so on. If you want a V-shaped cut, start in the V-grooving category. Then look at shank size, cutting diameter, and max RPM. Photos don't tell you whether a bit is bearing-guided or meant to run between fences. For a 90° V groove, most profiles are simple enough to guide with a router edge guide or a fence. I learned this after choosing a bit based on the picture and then discovering the bearing was in the way. Read the spec line, not the marketing copy.

What can I do with a Freud 90° V grooving router bit?

The Freud 90° V grooving router bit makes a clean V-shaped channel with two flat faces meeting at a 90° angle. I've used it for sign letters, decorative panel lines, simulated board gaps, and texture work. Because the included angle is fixed, cut depth determines groove width. Plunge roughly half the intended width to get a full V-shaped cut. A 90° V groove bit cannot make square-bottom grooves. For cabinet doors, one or two shallow passes can look like a seam. For signs, deeper cuts give more shadow. If you are new to these bits, practice in scrap and plan the depth. A bit that sounds small, like a 1/2-inch diameter, still cuts a 1/2-inch-wide groove when plunged to its published depth.

Why do so many tool lists specify router bits 1/2 shank?

Because router bits 1/2 shank are stiffer and less likely to deflect than 1/4-inch shank bits. That stiffness helps on production runs and in dense hardwoods. But router bits with a 1/2 shank don't fit every router. Many compact trim routers only accept 1/4-inch. Full-size routers usually accept both with different collets. Honestly, I once ordered twenty Freud router bits 1/2 shank for what I thought was a standard 1/2-inch shop. Two of our three routers had 1/4-inch collets. Nine bits went back, and the return shipping ate most of the discount. Looking back, I should have walked to the shop before ordering. I didn't because I was in a hurry. Always check collet capacity before ordering a batch.

Do I need a 9416 16 piece metric master ratcheting wrench set for this work?

Not as a replacement for router wrenches, but I understand why it shows up on the same list. Changing bits and blades means holding the spindle while loosening and tightening nuts. Router collet nuts often need a thin open-end wrench; saw arbor nuts need a combination wrench that fits the nut. A 9416 16 piece metric master ratcheting wrench set is convenient if those sizes are metric. The catch: check the actual nut sizes first. The last time I assumed, a metric set sat in the drawer because the saw arbor was imperial and the router collet nut needed a thinner wrench. What most people don't realize is that the wrench included with a router is usually all you need until you lose it. When you do lose it, buy the single correct size before buying a full set.

Can I use router bits in a drill press or a hand drill?

No. Router bits are meant for high router speeds, not drill-press speeds. A typical router spins at 18,000 to 24,000 RPM; most drill presses top out around 3,000 RPM. At that speed, a carbide bit pushes, rubs, burns, and can grab. Router bits also cut with their sides, which creates lateral load. A drill chuck is made to hold a drill bit rotating straight, not to take side loads from a router bit. If you need a groove, use a router. If you need a hole, use a drill bit. They're different tools with different jobs.

What is the actual answer to "how to attach a circular saw blade to a drill"?

The actual answer is: don't do it. There isn't a standard way to attach a circular saw blade to a drill for cutting. That search usually means someone is hoping to turn a drill into a mini circular saw, and it doesn't work safely. A circular saw blade needs a rigid arbor, a flange, a guard, and a saw that spins the blade at the rated speed. A drill chuck is not an arbor, and a drill doesn't have the guard. If the blade catches, the tool can kick back violently. For circular holes, use a hole saw. For sheet goods, use a circular saw or jigsaw. I'd rather answer no than get the call after someone tried it with an adapter from the scrap bin.

Why is a new V-grooving bit burning even though the bit is sharp?

This is the question people don't ask, but they should. A new bit can burn for a few reasons: feed too slow, speed too high for the bit diameter, or too deep a pass. The center tip of a 90° V bit has very little surface speed, so it generates heat quickly if it dwells. When you rout a V groove, keep the work moving at a steady pace, don't stop mid-cut, and use two passes in hard material. If you're routing end grain or plywood, make a shallow scoring pass first. Burning isn't always a dull bit. Sometimes it's the setup.